Cruise to Mauritius
I had some reservations about the cruise before I got on the MSC Melody. I had done some research online and had read reviews of overseas cruises, describing the horrors of seasickness, the boredom of the endless sea, the frustrations with indifferent staff and the general grumblings of dissatisfied cruisers. In hindsight, this probably set me up for the lowest of expectations, and the fact that we found very little to complain about our cruise was an added bonus. The effects of seasickness were only mildly uncomfortable, the endless ocean was immensely romantic, the staff was mostly very accommodating and pleasant, and no matter how wonderful a place is, there will always be cringe-worthy, cantankerous customers who seem to make it a hobby of finding faults with all staff. We really had a fabulous time and enjoyed our 11 nights onboard the MSC Melody far more than we ever expected.
Activities for everyone
Many people wonder what exactly do you do on a cruise ship all day. Lots actually. Or nothing at all, if you like. You can sun bathe, swim, read, nap, eat, jog, check your e-mails, take an aerobics class, take a yoga class, dance, learn to dance, learn to draw a portrait, learn to play foosball, play foosball, play ping pong, make friends, beat someone at ping pong, make new friends, play bingo, test your knowledge at a poolside quiz, shop, gamble, sip on cocktails, get a haircut, get a massage, get a manicure, gym, watch a movie, watch a cabaret show, watch the other cruisers, play board games… or just choose a quiet spot and watch the world go by in a blue wonder (the ever-changing moods of the ocean is inexplicably mesmerising, much like watching the flames of a fire).
Island hopping
We were spoiled on our cruise as we got to see three foreign islands without the hassle of visas and customs, definitely an added bonus of cruising. Because neither of us had ever been to Mauritius, Reunion or Madagascar, it gave us a quick glimpse into the general feel of the islands, and now we know to where we would like to return and explore more extensively.
Mauritius had much more to offer than I had imagined (the Mauritius holiday ads in the travel section of the newspaper is not the best representation of the country, I discovered). We went shopping, scuba diving and wondered, wide-eyed, through the streets of Port Louis and soaked up the cultural heritage of the island. I was suitably impressed at myself for possessing a French vocabulary extending beyond ‘Bonjour’ and ‘Voulez-vous coucher avec moi’, even though speaking French was rendered almost useless as in response, French-speakers generally speak too fast for comprehension. We resorted to English and sign language most of the time. Overall, it was a wonderfully rich experience, not the sterile, polished-to-perfection resort island image I had had of Mauritius. Definitely a place to go back to!
Reunion is French in every sense of the word. They use Euros, ride French buses, drink Champagne, have impeccable taste and eat baguettes. They also refuse to speak English. Tall, mysterious mountains cover this small island, and the black, volcanic soil allows just about anything to grow. They are famous for their volcanoes, which we did not have a chance to see as they were on the other side of the island and we only had seven hours to spare (MSC offers a seven-hour bus tour to the ‘Piton de la Fournaise’, the volcano, for US$115.00 per person, which was unfortunately a bit over our budget). We did, however, take a local bus up to ‘Cap Noir’, and then had a glorious shopping spree. According to fellow cruisers, Reunion also offers fantastic surfing and snorkelling. We left Reunion feeling a bit sorry that we didn’t have more time to spend there, but sure that we would return.
Madagascar, definitely the most ‘third world’ of the three islands, did offer the most natural wonders. En route to the Nampoinia Reserve, we came across a bunch of boys not much older than eight years of age. One was holding a long stick with a chameleon on it. We stopped the taxi and they immediately offered us the chameleon. We felt sorry for the poor animal, convinced that the boys would eventually torture it to death so we offered them 5000 Ariary (about US$2.50) and took the chameleon with us to release in the reserve. When we got to the reserve, the local guide told us that the chameleon we “bought” was a female and won’t mate now that she has been taken from her natural area. Also, despite our intentions, our offering the boys money has the negative effect of creating the idea that tourists want to “buy” wild animals, which will motivate them to catch more creatures to sell to tourists. So a word of advice for future visitors: Don’t offer to buy any animals, even if you want to rescue them!
If ever I had to imagine the Garden of Eden, I would think of the Nampoinia Reserve. There were fruit trees laden with all types of fruit, rice paddies, flowers in full bloom, trees big and small (the Giant Bamboo can grow up to a meter a day!), and then there were the lemurs, four species in total, as well as giant tortoises, colourful lizards and frogs… the only thing missing from Madagascar are poisonous snakes. Madagascar is a beautiful place; I’m glad we got to visit the island as I don’t think we would have ever chosen Madagascar as a holiday destination, it’s just a pity there wasn’t time to see more.
Seasickness
The first thing everyone asked when they saw me after the cruise was the obligatory “Did you enjoy the cruise?” and then followed by, ”did you get seasick?” I must admit, I was pretty weak the first three days; I walked around with a heavy head similar to a mild hangover. And this was with the help of anti-nausea tablets… I hate to imagine how I would’ve felt without the tablets. But from the third morning I was feeling much better and felt I could take on the gym – where my efforts to counteract the motions of the boat made me almost throw up on the trainer and I was back hugging the pillows in my cabin, brows furrowed as I tried to distract myself by deciphering what the announcer on the PA system was saying (my one complaint about the Melody would be the aging PA system which they must’ve stolen from Charlie Brown’s school).
There were quite a few green faces in the beginning, but soon everyone developed their sea legs and enjoyed the cruise tremendously. For this, I would recommend anyone considering a cruise to opt for a long cruise rather than a short cruise as you may spend days with a heavy head and just as it starts to clear up, be packing your bags to disembark. What a shame that would be!
[Editor: in our experience most people don't get seasick]
Shopping
More than any woman I know, I love shopping. Even if you need just bath plugs or jumper cables, I will gladly spend two hours browsing the hardware store. Which brings me to shopping on my cruise holiday. Wow. Onboard the Melody there were European chocolates, perfumes and cosmetics that made me weak at the knees, and all at duty free prices. But shopping in Mauritius, Reunion and even Madagascar was just heavenly!
I recommend finding a good size supermarket in Mauritius, there you will find cold meats, cheeses and wine fit for a French feast. Head to factory shops for good quality clothing and well-known labels made in Mauritius. In Reunion, we were surprised to find a big mall and it happened to be sale season. Beautiful leather shoes, French Champagnes and all things French got us swiping our credit cards for hours. In Madagascar, Fort Dauphin was regrettably small and rustic, but you will find the cheapest vanilla pods here, as well as gem stones, fossils and baskets. The market is grubby and not particularly tourist-friendly, but offers an eye-opener if for the adventurous, also you will find local baskets and textiles here. Just watch out for the pickpockets! If you have time, I recommend heading to Le Tournesol, not far from the market, for some local flavour in a clean restaurant, they have seats in the garden with views of the mountain, and there is plenty of fresh seafood on the menu!
Meals
Part of the cruising experience is stuffing your face with food periodically. I was particularly excited about this because I love to eat, and I love to eat consistently. Starting at 7am, you can choose to have breakfast in the Galaxy Restaurant, or a full breakfast buffet upstairs on the Pool Deck. At 12 noon, lunch is served. Again there is a choice between the big buffet or à la carte dining in the restaurant. At 4pm, tea is served with sandwiches, cakes and pastries. From 6:30pm, the first sitting for dinner is served in the Galaxy Restaurant, followed by the second sitting at 8:45pm. Dinner is a grand affair with a different menu every night, although some staple favourites are offered all the time (like spaghetti bolognaise and hamburgers). If you think that is all, don’t worry, for the night owls and party animals, there is a midnight buffet that is the most lavish spread of the buffets, and usually accompanied by beautifully carved fruit and vegetables, making them feasts for the eyes too!
To give you an idea of what it takes to feed over 1500 people onboard, five meals a day, here are some figures from the Food and Beverage Manager’s clipboard: in one week the ship used 15,965 fresh eggs; 740 kilograms of frozen eggs; 1800 kilograms of flour; 400 litres of cooking oil; 120 litres of olive oil; 440 litres of salad oil; and nine litres of extra virgin olive oil for the tables. The food is prepared by a team of 75 Food and Beverage personnel who fire up the kitchen stoves from around 5:30am all throughout the day, until 1am, with the last shift leaving the kitchen an hour after midnight buffet is served; but snacks and drinks can be ordered from room service 24 hours a day.
Hygiene
The MSC Melody has capacity to carry around 1500 passengers and 550 crew onboard (it's the second smallest of the MSC passenger fleet, after the Sinfonia), and all these people share the same public spaces for days at a time, making the spreading of germs a very serious concern. For this reason, there are hand sanitizers and washbasins all over the ship, and there are very strict procedures for cleanliness and the handling of food for the staff. Checks are carried out all the time with regards to food storage temperatures, surfaces, and contamination. During our whole cruise we never once felt that the food was unclean or old, and we didn’t hear of any incidences of upset stomachs other than due to seasickness, but that’s a different story.
Different cultures
The crew onboard the MSC Melody come from all over the world, with a majority of the management from Italy (it is an Italian ship, after all), the majority of the dining room staff from Indonesia, and then the rest of the staff from Russia, Ukraine, Mumbai, South Africa, Thailand, etc. We welcomed the mix of accents as it added to the holiday atmosphere and often caused a few giggles. For some unknown reason, we were placed at a six-seater table on our own for dinner although just about every other table was full. After dinner the one evening, one of the Italian restaurant managers came over for the usual polite inquiries over supper. He pointed to the empty seats at the table and asked us, ”You’re an animal?” My husband and I looked at each other, perplexed. He repeated again, signalling furiously at the two of us with his arms, as Italians do, and asked again slowly and clearly, ”…YOU’RE AN ANIMAL?”, while I still had no clue, my husband suddenly said with a big smile, “Oh yes! Yes… We’re on honeymoon!”
Managing tourists
Early on in the cruise, one of the managers onboard invited himself to dine with us for a casual interview. While I was fighting my hangover-like seasickness I had completely forgotten to prepare questions and ended up just having a pleasant evening chatting about tourism.
Our animated Italian guest has only been on the Melody for the last few years but has been in the travel industry for decades. He has travelled extensively around the world and has dealt with tourists from all over. When asked which nation produced the most difficult tourists, he immediately whispered: ”America”. Not surprised, I asked whether they are really that difficult. He put on a straight face, leans in and says: ”Difficult? They are IMPOSSIBLE!”
“Americans,” he says, “they have a problem with everything.” He mimics, “Oh, in America, they ALWAYS have water and ice available on the table.” He looks at me pleadingly, “You travel to experience other cultures, if they want things done the American way, please, they have lovely big hotel chains in America. They complain about everything! They take a sip of the water… and (he scrunches up his face, puts on his best American accent) Mm… It tastes… DIFFERENT. What do you say to that? It’s water, but it tastes ‘different’?!”
And the silver lining: “I thank God for Americans because they have given me the best training for dealing with impossible clients. Thanks to Americans, I have patience with anyone.”
Making an effort
What I appreciated most onboard was the effort the crew went to make the cruise special for everyone. Yes, they do back-to-back cruises, but for us passengers, a cruise is a rare occasion and the staff understands that. From the moment you step on board, you are surrounded by an energetic, warm crew who welcome you with dancing, glasses of bubbly and the Captain’s meet and greet; throughout the cruise they entertain you with live shows and music, activity classes and games; they make sure you are comfortable by straightening up your cabin twice a day and serving you in the dining room with a big smile and a joke to share; and up until the last day they create the impression that yours is the most important cruise they have ever been a part of and that you are indeed a very special passenger, they prepare a grand farewell dinner, an extended farewell show and put on a passenger talent show. I was so enamoured with the staff and their enthusiasm that I almost felt cheated on when I learnt that the next cruise was due to embark within hours of our disembarking.
Another manager told me that one of the funniest questions he has ever been asked (and by a journalist!) was whether the staff goes home after their shifts. Laughing so hard he had tears in his eyes, he said he was almost tempted to answer yes, that helicopters fetch them every night to take them home. Although an absurd question, I can almost understand the poor journalist’s mistake for thinking that the crew “goes away” after a day at the office. They just never seem to run out of steam!
Tips for cruisers on the MSC Melody
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If you know you are prone to motion sickness, when booking, ask to be placed in the middle of the ship (and lower down) as there is considerably less motion. Start taking your anti-nausea tablets the day before your cruise (Avomine, Stergerone and Valoid are apparently all very good).
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If you do get seasick onboard, don’t give into the temptation to curl up and feel sorry for yourself in your cabin, rather go to the outside deck to catch some fresh air and look at the horizon to help your body regain some bearings. According to other passengers, Appletizer and swimming in the pools also help to relieve seasickness (don't drink alcohol!).
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If you are prone to motion sickness, AVOID the gym!
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Remember to pack adaptors if you need to charge any batteries, in the cabins you will find 110V and 220V two-prong plug points.
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Bring a small packet of washing powder in case you need to wear certain items again, although there is also a laundry service.
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Pack lots of sun block, after-sun, hats and sunglasses!
Try to catch the evening shows as they are all of very high quality, and be there early to ensure you get good seats!
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Do pack at least one formal outfit for the gala evenings.
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It’s worth getting up a little earlier to catch breakfast down at the Galaxy Restaurant. There you can order freshly prepared eggs from the kitchen (I personally loved the poached eggs done the proper way in water and then sprinkled with parmesan cheese).
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Dinner comes in small portions but every evening there are about eight courses to choose from. You can order something from every course or even order two main courses if you wish. You can also ask for seconds for pudding… Dieting can wait!
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Bring comfortable shoes for exploring the islands.
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Don’t worry too much about buying local currency for Mauritius, Madagascar and Reunion. All three islands have ATMs where you can draw money using your credit card (we found Visa was accepted just about everywhere). You can also exchange money onboard, it might be a good idea to get some change in US dollars or Euros for the initial taxi/bus ride into town. (At Port Louis, the water taxi cost US$2.00; in Reunion the standard bus ticket is €1.50; and in Madagascar, taxis can be hired at the port from US$25.00.)
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Budget sparingly for service charges, drinks, excursions and shopping, not because things are expensive, but because you will want to buy everything, go everywhere and see everything! The charges onboard are very reasonable (around US$4.00 for a cocktail, US$2.00 for a glass of wine, US$2.30 for a 1,5L bottle of water, and US$12.00 for house keeping services per day), excursions organised by MSC are convenient and cater for different activities and budgets, and you can buy presents at the duty-free shops onboard where you can go mad over perfumes, cosmetics, watches, jewellery, chocolates, alcohol and tobacco products.
By Alice Kühne